moving to the mountains

Movin’ to the Mountains

What could compel two young college grads to move to  an old homestead on a ridgetop in rural West Virginia?

A grittier lifestyle of outdoor living, a chance to redefine what success meant to us, the passion to live an authentic life, and an opportunity to answer the “what if” of saying yes to anything life can throw at you.

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For years, long before even our marriage was a certainty, my boyfriend and I dreamed of the Big Laurel Learning Center. Ian’s connection began his first year of college during an intentional spring break service trip; two years later he took me along with him. 

Our passion for the place grew with the intensity of our relationship. We fell in love with the ramshackle buildings, the sprawling, forested mountaintops, and the quirky community of liberal Catholic Nuns that had called this place home for forty years.

Big Laurel took on a life of its own in our heads, the great pipe dream and “what if” question of our abilities. Having lived in cities for our whole lives, both of us yearned to move to the country, stretch out and pursue hobbies that existed only as dreams in our heads. We wanted livestock: a flock of chickens and a summer pig. I envisioned the overgrown garden lush with edible greenery. The woods inconspicuously growing ginseng and mushroom logs. We saw the place as the perfect destination to mesh our skills and passion, a place that we could both be of benefit to and benefit from. And by working through AmeriCorps, we could get paid to live there.

Things moved quickly, as the important things in life always seem to do. Within nine months of meeting for the first time our relationship turned serious: promises were shared and a wedding was planned.

Making the Move

Everything seemed so perfect — in concept. But actually packing every belonging into our midsize SUV and driving the nine hours to make this dream a reality catapulted our idealist optimism from the comfort of theoretic to the stark uncertainty of reality.

Still, the leap into the unknown was made. Newlyweds of two weeks, we crossed state borders, and moved into a living organism of a derelict mansion on top of a mountain with far more rooms than we could ever heat in the winter. This house depends on massive barrels of rainwater, and a passable wifi connection is only available for a few weeks of each month. Forget cell service; that’s only accessible at the bottom of the mountain.

And our closest neighbors and coworkers? They are two Catholic Sisters that are more frequently seen on quads than afoot.

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Key Facts About Big Laurel and the JASMER Land Trust

– JASMER is an Appalachian land trust started by the visionary Edwina Pepper in the late 60’s in an attempt to stop the segmenting of land in the region and to help preserve its natural beauty. It now holds close to 500 acres.

– Edwina Pepper lived on the mountain ridge in a rambling, forever growing stone house with her grand nieces and nephews. They created a sustainable homestead and specialized in crafts like wood working, pottery, essays on mountain living, organic gardening and the promotion of Appalachian culture. A big contribution they made was publishing the Mountain Call, a journal that was published right in the home and distributed throughout the community. (Ian and I now reside in Edwina’s old home, the Knob House.)

– In the early 70’s, Edwina Pepper advertised in the Mountain Call for a few teachers to come and form a school on the mountain ridge in order to educate the local children that couldn’t make the hike everyday to the school below. This call was answered by two nuns, Sister Kathy O’Hagan and Sister Gretchen Shaffer. They formed the Big Laurel School, a one room school that was operational from 1976-1988.

– Now, the Sisters still live on the mountain and run Big Laurel, though the school has been converted into a retreat center that hosts groups year round for educational service opportunities that teach about Appalachian culture, environmental sustainability, and the effects of coal mining on the region.

– Ian and I have taken AmeriCorps positions at Big Laurel, which means for the next 11 months we will be living in and maintaining Edwina Pepper’s old home, working in the local schools as teacher aids or after school programmers, and doing whatever we can on the premises of Big Laurel to help farther its mission as an Appalachian, ecological learning center.

Our Roles as Caretakers of the Knob House

In essence, we have been granted access to the sandbox of our dreams. Scattered throughout the property are abandoned buildings crammed with goods left behind years ago. High quality garden tools may show up in one shed, while another reveals sewing machines, drill presses, and chicken feed dispensers. Fruit trees are being choked out by the encroaching forest, and the old chicken coop can just be seen through the heavy brush that has grown up around it. This place positively groans with the weight of its own history, and it’s in desperate need of some caretakers. And that is the job that Ian and I have enthusiastically taken on.

This blog is going to be a record of these adventures. As two city dwellers, can we actual adapt to such a rural lifestyle? Will Ian and be able to keep chickens alive in the winter? Will the garden’s heavy clay soil impede the growth of anything we plant? Will the loneliness and isolation caused by our useless cell phones make us go crazy? Will our idealistic dreams be proven naive and leave us disheartened and bitter by next summer? Right now there is no way of knowing, so the only way to go is forward, with as much passion and enthusiasm as we can muster. And I can hardly wait to get started.


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Six Month Update:

So many good things have come out of our time at Big Laurel. Ian and I have spent countless hours working in our new community. We’ve made big improvements to our homestead, expanded our livestock collection to include laying hens, silkie chickens, guinea fowl and meat rabbits. A pig is in the works as Ian continues to build a pen out of pallets we collect on the side of the road. We’ve also been blessed to be a host for numerous college groups that have used Big Laurel as a service site, including Wheeling Jesuit University and Calvin College. Best of all, after much thought and prayer Ian has accepted the position of Director of Big Laurel for the next two years.

All this to say, our Appalachian homesteading adventure is only just beginning! Thank you for reading and please consider following along by subscribing to my newsletter!

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25 thoughts on “Movin’ to the Mountains

      1. I met and married my husband (George) in 1989 at The Knob. We have been married for 27 yrs now. The best place on earth! Hope you enjoy your stay. PS…did you find the big ginseng patch yet?

        1. oh wow your intimate history with Big Laurel is very intriguing to me. I would love to hear more! Do you come back and visit often? And no….. we haven’t found ginseng yet. Just lots of blood root and poisen ivy. Would you like to give me a hint about where it is? 🙂

  1. oooo I am so interested in your journey. I also have take over old houses and made them better I have farmed and planted, fished and hunted these wild hills and fallen head over heals in love. Hope that you and your husband do too… best wishes.

    1. Trust me, we are very interested in where this journey will take us too. Though it’s only been three months so far I can say we are absolutely falling in love with this mountain state. I’m hoping that our homesteading prowess will continue to improve as well.

  2. Hi Lydia!
    I, too am an Americorps Vista volunteer, but at this time, I’m assigned to a place in the midwest. I tried very hard to find an area like yours to serve and eventually call my permanent home. The Appalachians hold a special place in my heart, -the history, the music, homesteading.
    How did you find this?

    1. Hi 21stCSettler! I’m so glad you found my site and that you are a fellow Americorps volunteer. 🙂 The short answer to my placement is that I married into it, as my now-husband discovered Big Laurel on a service learning spring break trip in college, fell in love with the place, and caused me to fall in love with it too. If you are serious about doing Americorps in Appalachia, I encourage you to look into Big Laurel! My husband and I plan to be here for a second year, but there will likely be a third Americorps position that will open up. Another option is Bethlehem Farm- a catholic community that serves through a sustainable farm and building projects in the community. I’m attaching their website here. http://bethlehemfarm.net/. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at lprunner58@gmail.com. I’d love to hear about your service experience!

      1. Hi, sounds like a wonderful adventure. I was wondering if you know if AmeriCorps takes “older” volunteers. Debbie

        1. Hi Debbie, there is no age limit on Americorps! In fact, many people use it as a career change in midlife because it is a great way to try out a new job or skill set. My site at Big Laurel has someone like that now. A similar organization, Senior Corps, is specifically targeted for people over 55. Essentially, options for service are just about limitless!

  3. How about write old fashioned letters, the letter writing can kee you busy and the joy you receive by reading your return mail from fans. We, as a society has gotten used to so much instant gratification, I think sitting down and reading letters that other people have taken time to write sounds kind of nice. You can still use your computer of course. I would be happy to share letters with you guys. Hang in there🇺🇸

    1. That’s a great idea Peggy! I’ve really enjoyed the mail I’ve gotten so far because of this blog, and it would be wonderful to get more. 🙂

  4. Love this…spent many summers up on that ridge. My grandparents lived at the head of Marrowbone Creek my entire life, but before that, right up on that ridge. I remember when the sisters came to start the school, such an exciting time. I love it that you are in Edwina’s house, wonderful to know it is being kept alive! Thank you for sharing this. Angi Dillon Moses

    1. This is fantastic! Thanks so much for commenting and sharing your personal stories about being in this region. I’d love to hear some of your stories about what the ridge was like a few decades ago….and what Kath and Gretchen were like!

  5. Very cool…I am no homesteader, but have recently moved to a rural small farm about 40 minutes from Nashville, TN. We just started the whole chicken raising adventure and I am looking for other smaller projects like raising mushrooms. I certainly hope all goes well with you and Ian. I will follow your adventure and share mine as well. God Bless You!

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